Portofino: Joya de la Riviera Italiana

Portofino’s history goes back to Roman times, when it was known as *Portus Delphini*, or “Port of the Dolphins”, likely named for the dolphins once common in the Ligurian Sea. The modern name, Portofino, comes from this original Latin name and has been used for centuries. What started as a quiet fishing village gradually grew into a small but important stop along maritime routes, thanks to its natural harbour. For hundreds of years, Portofino remained a working fishing port. It was part of the **Republic of Genoa** and later passed through various rulers, including the French and Austrians. It wasn’t until the late 19th and early 20th centuries that it started attracting visitors from outside the region. British and German travellers were among the first to “discover” it as a peaceful holiday destination, and by the 1950s, it had become a favourite for artists, writers, and celebrities. That popularity hasn’t really gone away. Portofino’s small size and colourful buildings make it one of the most recognisable places on the Italian Riviera. It’s been the backdrop for films and fashion campaigns and even appears in Taylor Swift’s song *Elizabeth Taylor* ("that view of Portofino was on my mind"). If you’re planning a Portofino trip, you definitely need to be aware that it's a pretty popular spot, so visiting in the shoulder season is definitely a great time to visit to have fewer crowds.

Reaching Portofino is straightforward, with several transport options available. **By Train:** - **From Rapallo:** Take a train to Santa Margherita Ligure station. From there, you can take a taxi, or catch bus #782 to Portofino (usually every 15 minutes). - **From Genoa:** Take a train to Santa Margherita Ligure, and from there take bus #782 to Portofino. **By Bus:** - **From Santa Margherita Ligure:** Bus #782 departs from the station every 15 minutes or so, taking about 15 minutes to reach Portofino. Tickets cost €3 one-way and you can pay on the bus. - **From Rapallo:** Take bus #707 or #798 to Santa Margherita Ligure, and from there take bus #782 to Portofino. **By Car:** - **Driving:** From the A12 motorway, exit at Rapallo and follow signs to Santa Margherita Ligure and then Portofino. Note that Portofino is a pedestrian zone with limited parking, so it might be easier to instead park in Rapallo and take the bus or a taxi from there. **By Boat:** - **Ferries:** Ferries run from Rapallo and Santa Margherita Ligure to Portofino, offering a scenic ride that takes just 30 minutes from Rapallo and 15 minutes from Santa Margherita Ligure. We had hoped to do this option but unfortunately the weather wasn't on our side so we didn't have the opportunity to do so! **Most Practical Option:** For most visitors, taking the train to Santa Margherita Ligure and then the bus to Portofino is the most convenient and cost-effective method.

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• Italy, Portofino
• Italy, Portofino
• Italy, Portofino

When it comes to the best things to do in Portofino, there are a few places you shouldn’t miss. Start by walking up to Castello Brown for panoramic views of the harbour. The path is short but steep, and the view is worth the climb. After that, head to the Church of San Giorgio, where you’ll get another great photo spot and a peaceful place to sit for a bit. Back in the main piazza, grab a caffè or *aperitivo* at one of the cafés and enjoy the waterfront. If you have time, walk or take a boat to the nearby Abbazia di San Fruttuoso, a small monastery only accessible on foot or by sea. **Top things to do in Portofino:** - **Castello Brown**: Perched above the harbour, this 16th-century castle offers panoramic views and a glimpse into the area's past. It's about a 15-minute walk from the main square. Open from 10:00 AM to 6:00 PM, with last admission at 5:30 PM. Tickets are €8 for adults; children under 12 enter free. - **Chiesa di San Giorgio**: This church, dating back to 1154, houses the remains of Saint George, Portofino's patron saint. It's a short 5-minute walk from the harbour. - **Parco Naturale Regionale di Portofino (Portofino Regional Park)**: This park offers various walking trails through lush greenery, leading to secluded spots and offering stunning coastal views. Trails vary in difficulty, so choose one that suits your fitness level. - **Baia Cannone**: A picturesque cove with clear waters, ideal for swimming. It's a short walk from the main square and is a beautiful area to relax in. Combining these attractions can make for a fulfilling day. Start with a morning visit to Castello Brown, then head to Chiesa di San Giorgio for some history. In the afternoon, enjoy a leisurely walk to the lighthouse, followed by a swim at Baia Cannone. Remember to wear comfortable shoes for the walks and check the weather forecast before heading out.

POIs

• Castello Brown
• Chiesa del Divo Martino
• Church of San Giorgio

**Getting to Castello Brown for "that view of Portofino":** If you're looking for the best view of Portofino, head up to Castello Brown. This former fortress overlooks the harbour and offers the most iconic perspective of the town. The easiest way to reach it is by taking the path called *Scalinata al Faro*, which starts in the harbour. It’s an uphill walk and is mostly steps, and you’ll reach the castle in about 10 to 15 minutes. Once there, you can visit the castle interior (ticket required) or simply enjoy the panoramic terrace just below. After your visit, walk down through the castle park, which brings you back to the town via a different and slightly quieter route. Even if you're only spending one day in Portofino or visiting on a Portofino day trip, this is one of the top things to do in Portofino. The light is best early in the morning or late afternoon, so time your visit if you’re keen on photos.

POIs

• Baia Cannone
• Portofino Regional Park

Cruising along the Ligurian coast by boat offers a unique perspective on the region's stunning cliffs and hidden coves. Opting for a private or small group tour lets you soak in the scenery at your own pace! Paddle-boarding has become a favorite way to engage with the calm waters here. The **Paddle Boarding Experience in Portofino** is a great choice for beginners and seasoned paddlers alike, offering equipment and guidance right by the harbor. A highlight is visiting the **Abbazia di San Fruttuoso**, accessible only by boat or hiking. Taking a boat tour is the easiest way to reach this secluded spot, where you can enjoy the peaceful surroundings and historic charm. Booking tours in advance is wise, especially during peak season, to secure your spot and preferred timing. Bring sun protection, water, and a camera to capture the breathtaking views and memorable moments on the water.

POIs

• Abbazia di San Fruttuoso

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Accommodation here ranges from charming boutique hotels to cozy guesthouses, offering a variety of experiences depending on your style and budget. One standout option is **Hotel Piccolo Portofino**, known for its welcoming atmosphere and convenient location, with rates starting around $224.23. Booking early is crucial, especially during the high season when places fill up quickly. Staying close to the harbour and main attractions can save you time and make it easier to soak in the local vibe without relying too much on transport.

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• Hotel Piccolo Portofino
• Eight Hotel Portofino
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For those looking to stretch their budget, considering nearby towns can be a smart move. These spots often provide more affordable options while still keeping you within easy reach of the main area. We stayed in Rapallo when visiting Portofino, and both **Rapallo** and **Santa Margherita Ligure** are great options to base yourself for exploring the wider Ligurian region. **Great options to stay in nearby towns include:**

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• Hotel Continental
• Imperiale Palace Hotel
• Best Western Regina Elena
• B&B Hotels Park Hotel Suisse Santa Margherita Ligure

Portofino's dining scene is a delightful blend of fresh seafood, traditional Ligurian dishes, and a vibrant café culture. The harbour is lined with eateries offering stunning views, but exploring the side streets can lead you to more affordable trattorias favored by locals. For a memorable meal, consider dining at **I Gemelli**, known for its exquisite seafood and Ligurian specialties. Reservations are highly recommended, especially during peak season, to secure a table. Similarly, **Dolce & Gabbana Caffè Excelsior** offers a chic setting for a coffee or a light meal. Embracing the local '*aperitivo*' culture is also a must—join the locals for pre-dinner drinks and snacks at a bar with a view over the harbour for the ideal Italian experience. Don't miss trying the local white wine, *Pigato*, for a true Ligurian experience. Remember, Italians enjoy long, leisurely meals, so take your time to savour each course and the company you're with. Avoid rushing, and embrace the relaxed pace of dining.

POIs

• I Gemelli
• Dolce & Gabbana Caffè Excelsior
• Gelateria Gepi Portofino
• Trattoria Tripoli
• Da i Gemelli al Molo
• Ristorante Lo Stella

If you're planning a Portofino day trip or spending more than one day in Portofino, there are plenty of places nearby worth seeing! These are even more accessible if you're staying in towns like Santa Margherita Ligure or Rapallo, as you'll be connected by high-speed train as well as local trains and buses. **Here are some places to consider adding to your Italian itinerary:**

POIs

• Sori
• Bogliasco
• Nervi
• Boccadasse
• Genoa
• Rapallo
• Santa Margherita Ligure
• Abbazia di San Fruttuoso
• Camogli

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• Cinque Terre Private Boat Tour
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• Day/Sunset tour in Cinque Terre on board a typical Ligurian gozzo boat

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